01 Definition of whitening
Cosmetics that prevent skin melanin deposition, and dark spots, lighten skin pigmentation and help skin tone improve brightness.
Reasons for blackening: The reasons for blackening include photoaging caused by ultraviolet light, personal endocrine metabolism, and genetic problems of physical and ethnicity.
The role of sunscreen: slow down photoaging, reduce melanin production
Means to improve skin tone: melanin production and restoration, uneven skin tone, epidermal water content, and refractive index, promotion of stratum corneum renewal metabolic rate, medical beauty (laser, LED phototherapy), oral drugs/health products.
02 Mechanism of whitening raw materials
Removal of melanin, reduction of melanin: vitamin C, redox (antioxidant) utilization of cytotoxicity: hydroquinone (cannot be used in cosmetics) Exfoliation: salicylic acid, various fruit acids
Controlling the formation of melanin reduces the oxidation of L Dopa (L-Dopa) in the biological chain: ellagic acid. Avoid inflammatory reactions: Tranexamic acid (tranexamic acid, tranexamic acid) reduces tyrosinase activity: 4-butyl resorcinol, kojic acid, arbutin
Protect your complexion with UV filters: sunscreens
Mechanism of whitening raw materials:
- Slow down synthesis by reducing the activity of melanocytes by using substances.
- Chemically and biologically reduce the oxidation of L-dopa molecules into pigment compounds.
- Anti-inflammatory, such as erythema following UV radiation.
- Decreases tyrosinase activity.
03 Whitening raw material application sharing
Hydroxyapatite + cysteine + glutathione are used in combination with three whitening raw materials to form electrostatic adsorption (van der Waals force).
Nicotinamide and acetylchitosamine can interfere with the glycosylation of tyrosinase through a 4:2 combination, so that tyrosinase cannot work, and cooperate with nicotinamide to block the transmission of melanin.
Tranexamic acid (tranexamic acid)
VB3+ Tranexamic acid
Increases the epidermal light refractive index, Crystalide™ Crystal Highlighting Peptide (Choda), improves skin transparency by inducing the molecular chaperone protein α-crystallin, while its micro-polishing effect casts an even radiance. This unique peptide has also been shown to exert an epigenetic modulation effect, resulting in harmonious skin maturation and quality improvement.
MandarinClear_ Transparency (butanediol, water, citrus (CITRUS RETICULATA) peel extract), by improving the structure of keratinocytes, the distribution of keratin and keratin, the skin after use can be reduced, smooth and transparent Increase.
DermalRx SRC (water, yeast extract, soybean amino acid, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate), brightens skin tone, removes dull skin, promotes the exfoliation of aging keratin, improves skin self-renewal ability, and reduces wrinkles (Ruiyu Chemical)
Penetration enhancer-WILBRIDE S-753 (INCI name: PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin)
Penetration Enhancer – Neosolue™ – Aqulio (Bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate)
Cuticle softening biological buffer HEPES LUV (Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid), a zwitterionic buffer, widely used in cell culture media, proteins, IVD kits, etc. Penetrate and stabilize product quality.
Exfoliating such as fruit acids, tartaric acid, acids
Physical modification: liquid silver
04 Conclusion: commonly used whitening raw materials
VC, tranexamic acid, 4MSK, MSH, plant extracts: [Glycyrrhizin (licorice derivative)], resorcinol derivatives, kojic acid, VB3, antioxidants, Glycyrrhizin (licorice root) derivative)
The myth of removing spots: Spots are usually divided into freckles, chloasma, age spots, nevus of Ota and acquired nevus of Ota. Generally, the sunburns mentioned by patients are mainly freckles, chloasma, age spots and acquired nevus of Ota. Freckles, senile plaques and acquired nevus of Ota are generally treated by laser, especially freckles and senile plaques, which can have better results at one time; acquired nevus of Ota requires several treatments; chloasma is relatively difficult, laser The effect of the drug is currently controversial, and usually can only be treated by daily care and oral medication
The key to whitening: sun protection can effectively whiten